Starts / drives but needs clutch work - please see all info provided in listing
- Condition: Used
- Make: Triumph
- Model: TR6
- Type: Convertible
- Year: 1975
- Mileage: 87881
- VIN: CF35093
- Color: Red
- Number of cylinders: 6
- Fuel: Gasoline
- Transmission: Manual
- Drive type: RWD
- Interior color: Tan
- Drive side: Left-hand drive
- Vehicle Title: Clean Want to buy? Contact seller!
1975 Triumph TR6
For Sale 1975 Triumph TR6
Location : Auburn KS â€“ about 10 miles SW of Topeka KS â€“about 70 miles from Kansas City.
I have owned this car for almost 40 years. My goal in providing this information is to be honest with a potential buyer and try to tell them everything I can remember, good and bad, about the car. There is no way I can recall everything that may be an issue, but I am doing my best to be as complete and honest as my memory will allow.Please note my 100% perfect ebay sellers rating.Car is being sold â€œas isâ€ with no warranty of any kind.
It has never been restored. During the 38 years I owned it I just did routine oil changes,tune ups, valve adjustments, trans and diff fluid changes, etc. and any necessary repairs including replacing wheel bearings, tires, brake pads, differential oil seals, etc. It has never been in any professional repair shop since I have owned it.The new owner will need to do some work, or have work done, to get the car back into 100% correct running condition. There will likely be some minor things not listed here that need attention.
Since I have owned It has always been â€œgarage keptâ€. During the 38 years I have owned it I have put less than 10K total miles on it.
Between 1984 - 2017 I drove it from time to time, but never put more than a few hundred miles on it per year during that time.From 2017 - 2021 it was not driven at all due a carb fuel leak. In 2022 I rebuilt the carbs, cleaned out old gas from tank, bled the brakes, and got it up and running again.
Photos : I have taken over 100 photos showing many areas of this car. Due to listing limits, I have only included some of them. If there is any area of the car that you want more photos of, just ask.
Videos : Listing of videos viewable on You Tube (sorry about the wind noise)
https://youtu.be/W8mtDi5L1l4...... Walk around top up
https://youtu.be/LdMiYvK9ECY...... Warm start up
https://youtu.be/rGoZEYTC8WA....... Short Drive / Exterior / 1st, 2nd3rdgears
https://youtu.be/O9npcXOGCks .........Short Drive / Interior / 1st, 2nd, 3rdgears
https://youtu.be/liSwSptOHGc .... Cold start / interior view
https://youtu.be/M8lw1FPkZTg ..... Cold Start Engine Comp
https://youtu.be/NHZ0Uo2osA0...... Top down walk around
Body : I believe the paint is original. There are many nicks and scrapes and swirls, some fading on passenger door, and areas where the pinstriping has peeled off. No major visible rust. The left front headlight area has some metal that has been crushed in â€“ it was like that when I purchased it (see photo). The left front door has a crease in it where it hit a garage wall while I was backing out with the car door open, andthe left front fender in that area has a crease also from the same incident. (see photo) The door opens, closes, latches correctly but does not have the check strap. I have an extra door (white) that I purchased but never got around to installing â€“this will go with car if you want it.
Rocker panels â€“ some large dents that were there when I purchased it. Not very visible unless you look down low. Some peeling of the black protective layer on rocker panels
Glass â€“ no cracks in windshield or door windows â€“ up / down crank on windows is loose with free play.
Frame : In very good condition for its age. Photos from underneath show frame and floor panels with only mild surface rust. Frame looks good with no known repairs. I folded back the front floor carpets to look at the metal floor boards, but there is a â€œpadâ€ glued down between the carpet and floor boards. I tore a couple of small areas of pads open and the floor boards look in very good condition. Trunk has no rust. Spare tire is included.
Tires : Michelin Redlines. I purchased them new in 1984 â€“ still plenty of tread, and the tubes have never been patched. Hold air, and just need a few lbs put in each year.
Engine : I have never done any internal engine repair â€“never had the heads off, etc. I just replaced oil every year or two, changed plugs a few times, adjusted valves, points, timing, dwell, etc. I added a retro fit oil filter adapter so it takes a standard modern oil filter. Carbs are standard Zenith Stromberg 175-CD that I just re-built. Bottom of engine is showing some oil leakage which is likely coming from oil pan gasket but I am not sure.
Carbs â€“ I did rebuild them a few months ago, and I did balance them. The chokes are not working properly â€“ the cables pull â€œupâ€ the choke mech OK, but donâ€™t seem to want to push the mechs back down when choke knob is pushed in. This may be due to wire in cables flexing. May need new choke cables.
Emissions â€“ there is hose coming from intake manifold that goes to charcoal canister that broke off at the cannister â€“ I am including a brand new bottom section of cannister that can be installed to re-connect hose, although it has been running without this hose connected for years.
Distributor - At some point prior to my purchasing the original distributor may have been replaced as it has both a vacuum advance and a vacuum retard, and the OEM for 1975 only had advance.
Starter - there are times when the starter does not engage the fly wheel on first key turn. â€“ itâ€™s done this since I purchased it 38 years ago.I would say 90% of the time the starter correctly engages first time key is turned. Normally if it does not engage on first try, it will engage on 2ndtry.
Transmission : Works correctly â€“ this is a four speed â€“ it does not have over drive. Some minor leaking in both transmission and differential areas but not enough to leave any puddles on floor.
Brakes - I just bled them and they feel strong and even.
Clutch â€“ currently works but will need repair. I believe the issue may be a common problem with many Triumphs, with the pin that holds the fork to the shaft breaking or wearing (it could be something else?). A number of years ago I did some quick repair as the clutch would not fully dis-engage and I did not have the time or money to fix it properly. I added some spacer washers to move the slave cylinder assembly forward to compensate for the assumed broken or worn pin. It is drivable but needs correct repair. Normally, the clutch will disengage between 1-2-3-4, but sometimes you may have to pump it a few times to get it go into 1st from neutral, or into reverse from neutral. The transmission must be removed to access the clutch area. Normally,this is done by bringing it up thru the interior of the car.
Drive drain : Rear differential has some noise â€“ as I recall mostly noticeable with top up at high way speeds.
Suspension : I never did any work on front or rear suspension or replaced any suspension or steering parts that I can recall
Interior : Seats are original leather with no visible tears. Door panels have tears and are coming lose from welt and doors. Dashboard was re-surfaced to fix peeling lamination many years ago but finish is not perfect. Black padded dash area has numerous cracks.
Top : I think I replaced the top once about 30+ years ago. Does not seal tight against window glass due to Velcro issues. Rear passenger side plastic window has crack. Does come with complete black tonneau which covers entire seating area and brown partial tonneau cover (shown on car.)
Electrical and gauges: The odometer is no longer working. But, mileage shown on odometer (80,870+) is accurate as it was working in 2005 and it has been driven less than 100 miles since then.All dash gauges work, lights and turn signals, work, etc. Horn does not work. Radio does not work.
Battery : I just purchased and installed a brand new battery for it
Keys â€“ I just have one ignition key. Not sure if I ever had key for doors, trunk, or glove box.
Driving : Car starts, runs, drives, shifts, etc. But, because it has sat for many years, and the clutch needs work, it needs to be thoroughly checked out and gone thru before safely driving on a road.
Taking it home : You will absolutely need to put this on a trailer to get it home and do a thorough check out before driving it. I prefer â€œpick up with trailerâ€ but am open to working with buyer for 3rd party transport. I will not consider any type of "over seas" shipping / purchase.
Title : KS title shows date of 2014 but that is when I converted from standard title to Antique
Offers: Reasonable offers considered.
Communication: I strongly urge you to communicate with me prior to making an offer, or committing to purchase the vehicle so we can talk about condition, payment, pick up, etc. First initial communication needs to be thru ebay message system. Ebay sometimes makes it challenging to share or provide email address or phone numbers, but there are work arounds.
Payment: Deposit of $300 by transfer into my account - deposit required within 48 hours of sales agreement. Final payment must be made within 10 days of sales agreement, or you will forfeit your deposit. I do not want to use the ebay Escrow system. These payment forms not accepted: money order, personal or business check, credit or debit card, cash, venmo, crypto, or other social media payment types. Direct wire transfer between your bank account and mine is the safest and most fraud resistant method but I will consider bank issued "bank cashiers check".