Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 1978 - Very original

Price: - Item location: San Jose, California, United States
Description:

1978 Toyota Land Cruiser Orig

Please check it out on ih8mud dot com in the fj40 classifieds section until I get around to posting details. There are pics in the for sale section and
I am the 2nd owner and have owned it since 2006. I have worked on it extensively and posted many pictures to ih8mud dot com. If you go to the classifieds the for sale thread is usually on the first page of the fj40 section.
The '78 2f passed CA smog back in March. It's not the original motor, but is bone stock and lower miles than the body without any proof. It has the CA-only TR manifold. The EGR manifold connection has a one broken stud leading to a ticky exhaust leak and a smelly interior. It needs to be fixed.
I broke one stud off of the EGR manifold connector. It's going to need to be drilled and tapped and it needs a gasket, which is available from Toyota.
It is driveable with the windows down, but I would caution anyone from operating it with the windows up due to the exhaust leak right at the firewall.
The mileage is sort-of unknown. It came to me with two clusters. The one that is in it says 396xx. As I recall the other one said 64xxx. I don't have it in my hand. The PO said he switched so it so it showed lower miles when the current one said 24xxx. Math says it has about 82000 miles. I have put 17000 miles on it in 12 years.
I have clean title in my hand. Offers accepted during the auction. I want it to go to a good home.
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It is all original including most of the bolts. I have turned almost every bolt in 12 years and drilled and tapped quite a few. Almost all are OEM and correct.
All new steering except for the steering box which is original. The brakes are all rebuilt since I owned it with new parts. It has DOT 4 fluid in it. It may need a seal kit in the master. It doesn't hold pressure very well, though still fully road worthy. It has Bilstein shocks to complement the original springs for a very comfortable ride compared to other
I estimate it has about 75000 miles on it, but that cannot be confirmed. The PO swapped out the cluster at some point. I would estimate that I have about 10000 miles on it between '06 and '14 and about 100 miles this year. I will be driving it some while it's for sale.
It has an old tool bag with the jack crank, but no other tools, original jack and rods where they are supposed to be. It comes with a working, unrestored jack, mounted in the stock location.
The front two 33x9.5 BFG ATs I bought new right around when they stopped making them, maybe 2013? The other three I pieced together from various places. All are almost full tread. One was flat for awhile and has some sidewall cracking. I've been driving around on it. The date codes on the oldest two, the rears, is '97. The big tires stuff nicely off-road with just a tiny bit of rubbing on the tub in the back at full flex. It runs 65 to almost 70 on the freeway pretty nicely due to the big rubber.
The green barn doors are very straight and mostly rust-free, but I have a pair of original-paint olive doors if you would prefer. One pair of doors is included, your choice.
The hood has plenty of surface rust and one hard top side has some bubbling rust. The patches I did in the rear sill need a do-over and the sill needs to be replaced eventually. In the pic of the driver's rear tire you can see some rock damage to the area behind the running board, but you could get it perfect with a hammer and some dollies.
The rear step and the other running board are in my garage and will be included as well as a good reproduction rear sill panel. The plastic mirror heads could use to be replaced. They don't last very long.
It has an e-locker in the front axle. It wasn't the best idea with no lift. I dropped the bump stops by about an inch for oil pan clearance. I always intended to install a cable-locker conversion kit. It has a lock-right locker in the rear. It's ok on the street, but noticeable. Awesome off road. The e-locker switch is an oem-style knob on an original flasher switch in an original hole nearby the lighter. I made the controller from relays from a circuit diagram found on the ih8mud forums.
It has an h-41 and a 3-speed case, so (4.92 x 2.12 x 4.11 = 42.87) vs (3.55 x 1.95 x 4.11 = 28.45) final drive ratio stock. That's right about a 1.5x lower ratio than stock as it sits. 1st gear is very short when driving it on the street, just enough to get it rolling. I don't mind it. The 3-speed case is a bit whiny, but not as bad as I remember. It has s t-case saver on it that you can see in the mud thread and it has the 2wd-lo mod which is great for backing out of the garage. The h41 has fair syncros, but it doesn't shift like a modern car.
It has a tach in the dash which is the biggest sin against bone stock. It's well done and in a good spot. The dash pad has only minimal cracks. It is the original. The door limiters are perfect and have all the original hardware. The doors have bronze bushings and the spare tire hinge plastic bushings have been replaced with OEM parts. The window felts need to be replaced.
As far as I know the wiring harness is perfect. Almost every circuit works, including the carb cooling fan. The exception is the seat belt buzzer. I recall it worked before, but it isn't working right now. It needs a new motor for the washer pump to work as well as tubing and the hood squirter. The original AM radio is currently not working, but it's probably just a fuse. The antenna could use to be replaced. It has broken plastic and is held together pretty well with a zip tie.
The seats are recently recovered over very nice original foams. All the belts are OEM and functional. The jump seats need attention. One needs a hinge welded, but it's not broken yet. The headliner has been out of it since I have owned it.
The lights are all Hella brand with regular bulbs. The driving lights are not hacked into the harness. They are wired with a relay to the high beams with no switch in the cab other than the normal high-beam switch. I want $200 extra to include these lights. If you don't care about them, I will remove them and replace with some sealed beams.
The VIN is available to serious bidders.
No reserve. Non-reimbursable $2000 deposit due within 24 hours, full payment by Cashier's Check from a major bank (BofA, Wells, Chase) within 7 days.
Shipping is your responsibility. I can not do more than be home when the truck comes. I cannot deliver it anywhere. It runs great. It could be driven home and I could arrange to have the EGR fixed at your cost.