1987 Porsche 944
1987 Porsche 944 Turbo.21 years of service records. All maintenance, including timing belt, balance shaft belt, rollers and water pump are up to date.A few years ago, I set out to build a well balanced 951 that would be street legal but still capable of racing. I had a fully built 944 cup car, but I wanted one I could still drive on the street, so I found this car and built it the way I wanted it to be. I reached out to Dave Lindsey of Lindsey Racing to help me put together a car that would be perfectly suitable on both Road & Track. Lindsey Racing delivered most all of the performance goodies, pre-set and dialed in to do the job. I reached out to the experts at RaceWerks in Virginia Beach VA., where there is one of the only Porsche 944 Certified mechanics still around. They did an excellent job installing, balancing, aligning and tuning everything into one perfect package. Here is a list to what has been done on the car over the past 2 years...
- Intrax RSA coil overs w/ adjustable camber plates
- Torsion bar delete
- MO35 front & rear sway bars
- Lower chassis brace
- Zimmerman cross drilled rotors, front & rear
- Hawk Performance HP brake pads, front & rear
- New brake hoses
- A.T.E. master cylinder
- rebuilt calipers ( all 4 ) using O.E.M. Porsche parts
- Sport Cup 17" custom wheels
- Toyo Proxy R888-R tires
- Brey-Kraus Rear tow hook
- Rennline, folding front tow hook
- Hajny bolt in roll bar
- 4" stainless exhaust w/ bung plug for future installation of MAF system.
- Cat delete w/ magnaflow muffler
- Lindsey Racing dual port waste gate
- Lindsey Racing boost controller
- 3 bar fuel pressure regulator
- Lindsey Racing performance chip
- Alpine stereo, w/ Skarr audio amp & subs
Although my intent for this car was DE & Autocross, the car has never made it to the track. About the same time all of this work was finished, I had found a Lotus Exige to be my designated track toy. I have since used the 944 as my occasional driver and absolutely love it, but I need to sell it for 2 reasons... First reason, I want to modify my Lotus for improved track performance before next season, and that takes a pile of money. Second & my primary reason is this... I own a used car lot. It's called Dixie Trading Co. & located at 6592 Caratoke hwy, Grandy NC 27939. When I purchased this car, I put it in my dealership name, so I could run my dealer tag on it, but I am now getting out of the car business and if this car doesn't sell before April when my license expires, I am going to transfer it into my personal name, but I would rather just go ahead and let it go. I have spent 34,000 on this car and it is exactly what I wanted it to be. IF it is also, exactly what you want it to be, then it's a great deal for you. As they say, " My loss, your gain" . I'm sure my Lotus will be the same way when I go to part with it, but that's just how it goes with building race cars. It's pretty much the biggest waste of money one can have next to a bad drug habit, but those with the Adrenalin addiction can't help themselves. If you're into racing then you know exactly what I'm talkin' about.
I'm a straight shooter and brutallyhonest, ( probably the reason I failed in the used car business ) so I'm going to give it to you straight on this car. The car functionality is awesome. This is a well sorted car, meaning most everything is working like it should without hiccups. The a/c blows ice cold, the cruise control works, the head lights go up and down as they should, the sun-roof opens and closes, the power windows and seats are working properly. All of the gauges light up at night and work like they're supposed to. Even the clock on the dash keeps time. It's amazing to me that a car of this age is still this functional without hassle. The only thing I know of that does not work is the electric popper to open the rear hatch. I hear it clicking but it doesn't open the hatch every time, but of course the key does, so I've never really tried to fix it. All that being said, I am saying it's all working "currently". That's not to be construed as some guarantee.The data sticker that should be next to the spare tire is not there. I don't know why, but it's never been there since I've had the car. The oil pan gasket has started to "seep." It's not so bad that it drips on the garage floor, but it might fail a tech inspection at the track. The boost controller was never mounted. It's in the glove box. I have always left it on the lowest setting because I like to keep my head gasket functioning. The car does have an over-boost protection programmed into the computer. If you hold it at 2-bar, too long, it will shut the fuel off. You'll know it when it happens b/c the car fumbles. It takes a little practice with the car to learn where that sweet spot combination of RPM's & Boost is at it's peak before you shift up, but once you get it, there's an irresistiblegrin that goes along with that shifting up into that next gear. I have done some "spirited" driving, along some winding back roads but as I said, I have never put it on the track to really push it to the limits. It has also always been garaged & pampered by both me and the 2 previous owners. You'll know it when you see it. If for some reason you wanted to put it back to original. I have all of the original parts that have come off it, including the back seat, the Blaupunkt factory head unit, suspensionparts & all, but I don't know why anyone would bother, but I did keep the parts just in caseand they all go with the car.Last but not least...the odometer reading is currently at 75,000 but True Miles are Unknown, due to an odometer mechanical malfunction, clericalerror or possible rollback, sometime in the mid 90's. In the mid to late 90's, the car was issued a branded title by the state of PA. The car was sold to a guy in Florida, who then later transferred ownership to his son in SC. That's the guy I bought it from. When a title was issued in SC, the odometer brand fell off, likely because of age. When I transferred the car to NC, the title brand was still off because in NC, any car over 10 years old, will simply state "mileage exempt" on the odometer reading. For this reason, this car will never have any " Collector-Car" value, but this is also the reason I chose to modify& molest such a well preserved car. If you're looking for an "investment" then don't buy this car, but if you're looking for a track toy, then I guarantee you, this T.M.U odometer is not going to slow you down on the back straight. I have had some people snub their nose at the car because of this, but I don't know why b/c I have seen plenty of fully built race cars with salvage titles or no titles at all, sell for way more than this, so I don't understand what the big deal is there, but I guess it depends on what you want. If you want an "investment" then don't buy a fu*kin' race car, but if you want a track toy that's ready to rock and still make the commute to work on Mondaymorning... this might be the one for you.Non-Refundable 500 dollar deposit due upon agreement to purchase through eBay. If you're coming here in person, to get it, then just bring a certified cashiers check, photo I.D., proof of insurance, we'll do all the paperwork & I can put a 30 day tag on the car for you to get home on. I wouldn't hesitate to drive this car across country. I've driven it a lot and it's never left me stranded, but then again.. it's a 33 year old car and is being sold As-Is, with no warranty expressed or implied. Once the check clears, I'll snail mail the title to you. If you bring a stack of Benjamin's, then I will let you leave w/ the title. The other option, if you're buying site unseen, I snail mail you the bill of sale and other documents to sign, then you'll return those with a cashiers check, when the check clears, the car will be available for pick up by your transporter. I will meet them and ensure the car gets safely loaded up and text you photos of it being loaded so you know it's out of my hands. I can send the title with the car of mail it to you, whatever you prefer.
