1971 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible Brown RWD Automatic Base

1971 Plymouth Barracuda Base

Vehicle Details

Up for auction is an authentic 1971 Barracuda convertible. This is not another year cloned into a ‘71 or a hardtop converted into a convertible. This is one of the 1100 authentic Barracuda droptops built in 1971. 1971 Cudas (hardtops and convertibles) are the absolute pinnacle for Mopar collectors so nearly every original, unmodified Barracuda like the one you see has since been cloned into a six pack or hemi clone. You will spend many years searching for another like this and by the time you find one, the price will have risen substantially. Prices on cars like these have gone up steadily since 1990 and will probably continue to do so for another twenty years.

DISCLAIMERS:

This is a very nice car but I do not represent it as being concours “Pebble Beach” perfect in every way. The shop that restored it did amazing work but they were not Mopar experts. That means there are technical mistakes here and there. If you’re the purist buyer who expects certain markings on bolt heads or needs to see the lower control arms in raw steel coated with cosmoline (or that sort of thing), then this isn’t the right car for you. Let’s not waste each other’s time.

This is a very long ad description. I hope to explain all I know about the car, technical mistakes I’m aware of and any changes I’ve made but it is on you as a buyer to read the description, ask questions and inspect the car. If you do that, there should be zero surprises. It is always my goal for buyers to fully enjoy the car they’ve bought from me for years after. I am retired and can easily adjust my schedule to meet anyone to show the car.

I have a high reserve on the car because it is rare and valuable. I am not inclined to sell it cheap. Out of fairness to all bidders, I won’t disclose my reserve until after the auction ends, assuming it doesn’t sell. Of all the cars I’ve sold on eBay, the deals often happen after the auction so please reach out to me afterwards if it doesn’t sell. If we are close, I’ll make it work.

There is no ‘buy it now’ price during the auction. If it doesn’t meet my reserve, I am happy to discuss a buy it now price afterward.

You are not bidding on a smoking, hot deal. You’re bidding on a gorgeous and valuable car with no surprises in store for you later on. If you need a bargain, look on Facebook. But since these cars are so hard to find, you’ll spend years searching just like I did before finding this one. However much you cringe at the idea of paying too much at purchase, that amount will pale in comparison to what you sell the car for five years later. That’s been the case with Mopars for forty years now. I paid top dollar when I bought it and I’ll sell it at top dollar (or keep it while it grows even more valuable).

HISTORY:

I bought this car four years ago from an older gentleman in Connecticut. He owned the car since about 1980. It was beat up when he found it but he stored it indoors until sometime around 2000s when he had it professionally restored by Auto Authority in Ellington, Connecticut. They are still in business if you care to contact them. I did four years ago and the guy still remembered the car. Rear quarter skins were installed during the restoration but the rest of the car retains it’s original metal. There was no rust then and there’s no rust now. The guy I bought it from babied the car after it was finished and since I’ve owned it, it’s remained in a climate controlled shop and driven very infrequently. The only reason I’m selling the car is because I really want a Cuda and I just can’t bring myself to start modifying an otherwise gorgeous car. I tend to rotate cars out of my collection after I get bored which is generally a few years.

OPTIONS:

This car left the factory with few options. Power steering, power top, Console but no radio. GY8 Gold Leaf with two tone Brown interior and a black top. It came with body side moldings from the factory but they were deleted during the restoration.

NUMBERS MATCHING:

The body numbers match the dash VIN plate. The original fender tag is still present. The original 318 motor and 904 automatic transmission are still in the car (both professionally rebuilt during the restoration to stock). The shop that restored it obliterated the door decal but I had another made by ECS and stuck it on. This car has two of it’s original build sheets. The previous owner was careful to restore the car to the way it left the factory (with the exception of him deleting the ugly body side moldings).

BODY:

This car is laser straight with no wavy panels. To my knowledge, it has never had any major accident damage. When I got the car, I swapped the carpet and I noticed then that the interior was not repainted but it was nice and clean, rust free and still wore it’s original gold paint.

The paint is the correct Gold Leaf Poly and glistens in the light. Photos really don’t do it justice. The restoration was done 15 years ago but the paint still looks like it was done last week. Few restorations look this great 15 years later and that’s the hallmark of quality work. The brand of paint used was Diamont by RM and it is a two stage Polyester Basecoat. Not sure what clear was used. Surprisingly, there are still no scratches, door dings or rock chips.

Doors, hood and deck lid fit just right and the gaps are even all around. Doors open and close like a brand new car and don’t need to be slammed to close fully.

Because the car didn’t get ordered with a radio, there’s no ugly antenna sticking out of the fender.

Car originally came with body side moldings but the previous owner thankfully elected to leave them off during the restoration.

The trunk floor is original and shows that it had some pitting before restoration. The previous owner was very insistent on saving as much of the original car as possible so the trunk was sanded down and painted but the pitting can still be seen. See pictures.

The rear quarters were banged up so the shop chose to replace them rather than beat out all the dents. The quarters are new skins seamed in at the top body line rather than full quarters. Again, previous owner didn’t want any more original metal cut out than was absolutely necessary. The seam is lap welded which was pretty much the standard back then. The weld can only be seen by sticking your head in the trunk and looking up. Very clean job and clearly solid since the car still looks perfect 15 years later. There are many today that believe all body panels should be butt welded instead of lap welded. Butt welds make work more invisible on the inside but that’s all. Butt welds are just the next level of anal. If the older lap welded quarter skins are concerning, please move on as I don’t care to debate the matter. The work on this car is fantastic and has held up nicely for 15 years so far.

Build sheet indicates car came with undercoating so during the restoration, underside was cleaned and undercoated, including wheel wells. I know people get nervous about what undercoating can hide but I’ve been under the car and every square inch is rock solid. Your in person inspection will confirm this. If undercoating is a concern, please move on to one of the trailer queens with the shiny painted underside.

I did not take pictures of the underside because I don’t have have a lift. The pictures I’ve attempted are too close and reveal only closeups of black undercoat which isn’t really informative or helpful. It’s in great shape underneath but you need to inspect it for yourself to feel satisfied. That’s what I did before buying it. Besides, you shouldn’t base an expensive purchase off photos alone. The underside is just as solid as the rest of the car.

The car came with a non remote driver door mirror. I preferred the sportier chrome racing mirrors you see on it now. The door mirror is now a remote mirror. The passenger mirror is attached correctly with threaded nutserts in the door rather than hokey sheet metal screws most people do.

The big paint flaw that really drives me insane is that the rear tail light bezels should be body color and not black. The shop that restored the car didn’t know this and neither did the previous owner. It’s a simple matter for a good painter to color match and repaint them gold. My plan was to do that and add a performance hood at the same time but I never got around to it.

POWER TRAIN:

Engine is the original 318, rebuilt to it’s wimpy, stock specifications. It still has the original two barrel carb on it. No oil drips.

Transmission is the original 904 automatic with a floor shifter in the console. Rebuilt during the restoration. Shifts nicely. Occasionally, there is a drop or tranny fluid but it’s practically drip free compared to all the other old cars I’ve owned.

The original rear end was an 8 3/4 unit with 2.76 open gears. I swapped the pumpkin out for 3.23 gears (open) to make driving a little more fun.

Radiator is a nice looking 22” replacement, painted black but it is not the original radiator to the car. I replaced the stock four blade fixed fan with a seven blade clutch style fan to reduce fan noise. It never overheated on even hot days with the smaller fan. Car never came with a fan shroud but one could be added easily enough.

INTERIOR:

The two tone brown and tan interior is the correct interior as shown on the fender tag. Covers are from Legendary and still look and feel new. After I bought the car, I took the bucket seats apart and put in new foam since the old ones were not very supportive anymore. Seats look and feel great now.

The carpet was faded when I bought the car but I put in new carpet. I put in dark brown but later learned that medium brown is actually the correct color for this interior. When I installed it, I cut a little too far up under the console. Can’t really be seen but I wanted to disclose the flaw.

Dash pad is original to the car and still looks new.

Door and rear panels are original to car and look great. The driver door panel had some wear before the restoration but they reshot everything brown and reused it. Might not notice it but I want the next owner to know everything I know about the car. I took a photo of the driver panel to show old wear and tear. Other panels in the car are nicer. These panels also have some clear coat over them for added protection. Some might find them a little shinier than original but I personally like how they always look freshly wiped down.

Console is original to car but was also reshot brown and cleared like the door panels. Door doesn’t close as perfectly flush as I’d like but this is present on 90% of all e body consoles. Top plate has no corrosion, chrome is shiny and decal looks great.

I switched the steering wheel adapter from the 5” long crush can style to a shorter 3” long smooth one from an A body because I preferred not having the steering wheel so close to my chest. I can switch it back easy. Buyer’s preference.

WHEELS AND BRAKES:

The car has it’s original four drum, non power braking system. Brakes were gone through during the restoration but I haven’t touched them since they all work perfectly. No squealing or pulling during braking.

According to the build sheet, car came originally with the saucer style 14” hub caps. I ran them for three years before upgrading wheels to the new 15” chrome Magnum style wheels shown in the pics. Hubcaps are in nice condition and go with the car.

The tires on it now are new Mastercrafts. 255/60 in back and 245/60 up front. No rubbing issues.

EXHAUST:

Car came originally with single exhaust but I removed it last year for upgrading. Original 318 exhaust manifolds were switched out to 68-70 High Performance manifolds used on 340s. These are very expensive manifolds but the original 318 units go with the car if you want to switch it back.

Because I put the 340 HP manifolds on the car, I also switched the oil filter to the 90 degree oil filter adapter recommended for clearance.

I put a new dual exhaust system from Accurate on the car along with new mufflers, resonators and hangers. Sounds great. Mufflers have down turns at rear valance instead of the chrome tips through the valance.

TOP:

Top is black and in perfect condition. Fits beautifully with no wrinkles. Car came with power top option and it works properly. I bought a new brown boot cover from Legendary after buying the car and it fits perfectly. I have the original one which I’m happy to include with the car but most of the plastic attaching clips were broken before I got the car.

SUSPENSION:

Suspension is original non performance, oem rubber. Cars drives great. Alignment perfect with steering wheel straight. No pulling. No sway bars. I added new light duty shocks all around after buying the car.

ELECTRICAL:

Everything works as it should on the car except the dash clock. Lights and turn signals good.

Standard gauges work as they should. I calibrated the speedometer gear so it reads accurately going down the road.

I added a Power Master alternator which looks original but works much better and more reliably. No dimming headlights at stop lights.

I also added a bypass wire from the alternator to the starter relay for better charging and for safety. It can easily be removed if you want. In using a bypass wire, the ammeter gauge becomes practically useless since most of the current isn’t being pushed through the gauge (ammeter gauges are fire hazards). The gauge operates but is no longer accurate until the bypass is removed.

CONCLUSION:

I think I covered everything on the car but if you have questions or would like additional photos, please ask. 805 404 4226 is quickest way to reach me.

I know it takes time to arrange transportation and I’m happy to store the car in my climate controlled shop until pickup.

On payment, I will accept two forms: Wire transfer or Cashiers Check. If we do Cashier’s Check, I must meet you at your bank in Nashville and personally witness the teller create the check. It is far too easy to create a fake cashiers check these days so I must takes steps to protect myself from fraud. I’m not asking for a deposit but after the sale, we need to talk soon or I’ll assume you’re not serious.

At the risk of sounding arrogant, the bottom line is that I know what I have and there aren’t any cars left like it. There is no reason for me to bargain it away. You can buy a Cuda clone for tens of thousands over what I want or you can buy one of the 300 authentic Cuda convertibles if you have really deep pockets. You won’t find another 71 Barracuda convertible in this price range. And while you spend a few years looking around, the prices keep going up. What you pay for this car today will be regarded as a great deal in a few years. That’s how it always works.

• Make: Plymouth
• Model: Barracuda
• Type: Convertible
• Trim: Base
• Year: 1971
• Mileage: 100000
• VIN: BH27G0B123456
• Color: Brown
• Engine size: 318
• Number of cylinders: 8
• Fuel: Gasoline
• Transmission: Automatic
• Drive type: RWD
• Vehicle Title: Clean
Want to buy? Contact seller!