400, Auto. Factory A/C convertible with a Power Top.

1972 Ford LTD

Up for bids today, is a RARE (1 of 1) 1972 FORD LTD CONVERTIBLE.

PLEASE READ THE ENTIRE LISTING. It is very detailed and informative, and should answer any questions that you may have.

I have a MARTI REPORT on this car, and it is the only 1 built like this. It is a deluxe Marti-Report (costs around $400) and it goes with the car.

I am only the 2ndowner of this car. I bought it from the original owner in August of 2020. He bought the car new in December of 1971. The original owner is a retired lawyer. This car was his first big purchase after he graduated from law school.

This car is a 99% original, unmolested, survivor car. The only thing not like the original equipment is the PETRONIX electronic ignition in the distributor and the radial tires (Factory were Bias-Ply tires).

This car has a factory 400 c.i.d. big block, C-6 auto trans, and (I believe) the famous Ford 9-inch rear.

Although I have only driven it less than 300 miles since I have owned it, it is very cool car to drive. I get thumbs-up, compliments, and questions every time that I drive the car.

This car is a FACTORY Air Conditioning Convertible with Front Power-Disc Brakes. It also has a Power Top with a GLASS Back Window, a Power Front Seat, and an AM/FM Stereo Radio.

It has its original white paint. The car was always garage kept up until October 2023, so the paint still shines when cleaned up and detailed. The odometer shows approximately 19,800 miles. Not sure if it is original miles. The original owner told me that they were original miles. I kinda believe that they are because of the VERY LITTLE wear on the pedals, carpets, and seats. But, on the other hand, I have a very hard time wrapping my head around the idea that the car was only driven an average of about 400 miles per year. So…. YOU BE THEJUDGE.

THE GOOD: This car runs, drives, shifts, steers, and stops flawlessly. The body is really straight, and does not appear to have ever been in an accident. All of the turn signals, brake lights, parking lights, headlights, and high beams work. The windshield wipers, blower motor, and speedometer all work. The foot switch for the high beams works.

The original owner always garaged the car and always left the convertible top down. That, unfortunately, wore out the factory top. So, the original owner put a new top on it in the summer of 2018, but he changed the color of the car from the factory black to a white top.

When I bought the car from the original owner, I loaded it up on a U-Haul trailer. At that time, my friend and I looked under the car the best that we could. There did not appear to be any issues with the frame or floors. I do not have access to a lift, so I have never completely checked it out. But, I am 6 foot 4 inches tall, and weigh 390 lbs, and I have stood up in this car with no issues with the floor giving out. The only anomaly that I saw with the frame is that there appeared to be a trailer hitch mounted to it at one point in its life, and it looks to have been grinded off. It is dead center, right below the license plate. There is light scaling there, but does not appear to be rusted through (as of August 2020).

I have owned the car since August 2020, and have done the following work to the car since I have owned it:

1) Rebuilt The Factory Carburetor (2020)

2) New Timing Chain And Timing Gears (2020)

3) New Fuel Pump (2020)

4) Complete Tune-Up (Regular Intervals)

5) Complete Oil Change (Regular Intervals)

6) Coolant System Flush And Re-Fill (2020)

7) New Oil Pan(2020)

8) New Oil Pump, Oil Pick-Up Screen, and Oil Pick-Up Tube (2020)

9) New Lifters(all 16) (2020)

10) New Push Rods(all 16) (2020)

11) New PETRONIX Electronic Ignition Kit (Kit replaces factory ignition points and ignition condenser in distributor) (2021)

12) New Water Pump (2020)

13) All New Gaskets associated with the above repairs (2020)

14) New Alternator(2020)

15) New A/C Compressor(2020)

16) New A/C Evaporator Core (2020)

17) New Heater Core (2020)

18) New Radiator (2020)

19) Retro-fitted A/C System with New A/C System Seals and charged system with R-134 coolant.(2020)

Now… Why all of that work, you may ask? Simple:

1)When I went to change the oil, I found that the oil pan was dented. When I removed it to replace it, I noticed that the oil pick-up screen and pick-up tube were bent, so I just decided to replace the entire oil pump setup as well as the oil pan. I pulled the intake manifold and checked the lifters and push rods for wear, in case the motor was lacking oil in the top of the motor. They were fine, but I replaced them anyway since I had to remove them to check them.

2)The water pump was leaking, so when I removed it to replace it, I decided to check the timing chain for wear. It had very little wear, but I decided to replace it anyway, since I was there. And, since I had to remove the alternator to do the job, I replaced it as well.

3)The factory A/C compressor was seized up. Since there is a danger of metal bits being in the system, I replaced as many A/C components as I could find online. I was only able to find a new A/C compressor and an A/C evaporator core, so I replaced them. I replaced the heater core since we were already up under the dash replacing the A/C evaporator core and the heater core was right there.

Although the Engine got a MAJOR refresh, with lots of new parts, it was not considered a rebuild. The cam has never been out, the heads have never been off, and the rotating assembly (crank, connecting rods, pistons) have never been touched. I did all of the work in my rented garage, using jack stands and hand tools. ????

THE BAD: I only found SURFACE rust in two areas: Where there is a chip in the paint on the passenger side of the hood, and in the door sill on the passenger side. This is just surface rust from the paint wearing off and not rust through.

The windshield wipers do not work. You can hear them clicking, so I believe that they are not attached to the windshield wiper motor. The wiper blades are completely shot and need to be replaced.

The horn and radio do not work. I believe that it is probably just blown fuses. But, again, I am a fat guy and I can not lay on my back and get under the dash to check it out.

The plastic grills over the factory door speakers are damaged.

The rubber piece on the passenger side rear window is shot and needs to be replaced.

The simulated wood bezel around the A/C and blower motor slide switches is pretty faded and worn.

The original owner said that when the car was about 6 years old, he backed into a curb and chipped the paint on the lower rear valance on the passenger side. That chip allowed it to rust.

The A/C works, but has a slow leak, so you have to re-charge the R-134 about once a year.

PLEASE check out the following links to videos of the car. They are informative and will answer most questions that you may have.

1)Cold startup: https://youtube.com/shorts/SB_BPERUgYc?feature=share

2)Interior:https://youtube.com/shorts/2K4LXTq5tCo?feature=share

3)Odometer:https://youtube.com/shorts/fDbUVsIF-k8?feature=share

4)Visors:https://youtube.com/shorts/WjD-1KUp8J4?feature=share

5)Hood Chip: https://youtube.com/shorts/gXcz6GyWHsA?feature=share

6)Passenger Door Sill: https://youtube.com/shorts/x7SR0D17npM?feature=share

7) Valance Ding: https://youtube.com/shorts/dQMvypZ2nV4?feature=share

8)Driver Door Sill: https://youtube.com/shorts/vZ0jKa4qXEY?feature=share

The car is appraised and insured for $16,500. But, I am letting the car go for what I have in to it. I have another project in mind, and the sale of this car will finance that project.

I have a clean and clear Pennsylvania antique car title in mine and my wife's name. This car is a running, registered, and insured car.

My name is Tim. You can call me at (215)910-6779 from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Eastern time, with any questions, or to come and see the car.

The car is at my home in Croydon, PA. We are just Northeast of Philadelphia.

Although this car is in great shape, it is, after all, a 52 year old car. So... You are buying it AS IS/WHERE IS, with no warranties or guarantees expressed or implied. You are responsible for inspecting the car for flaws, yourself, or hiring a private inspector to come on your behalf. Transport/shipping of the car is the buyer’s responsibility. Transfer of title, and all transfer fees and taxes are also the buyer’s responsibility. If you pick up the car in person, we will first go to the local notary and have the title notarized with your name as the buyer. (This protects me, in case you do something stupid with the car). So... If you pick the car up in person, it has to be Monday through Friday before 3 P.M. Eastern time, or on a Saturday before 12 noon, Eastern time.

I require a NON-REFUNDABLE deposit of $200.00 within 48 hours of the auction end, or the use of the "Buy It Now" option. This will cover my E-Bay fees, incase you never come for the car and I have to re-list it.

I require FULL PAYMENT for the car within 5 days of the auction end, or the use of the "Buy It Now" option.

Your bid is your contract. If you do not send a deposit, or respond within 5 days, the car will be re-listed, and you will be reported to E-Bay.

I will gladly work with your shipper. The car can stay here as long as 15 days, as long as itis PAID IN-FULL, while you make arrangements to pick it up, or ship it.

I RESERVE THE RIGHT TO END THE AUCTION EARLY, AS THE CAR IS FOR SALE LOCALLY.

I AM OPEN TO TRADES, SO LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU GOT!!!!!

Again... My name is Tim. You can call me at (215)910-6779 from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Eastern time, with any questions, or to come and see the car.

• Make: Ford
• Model: LTD
• Type: Convertible
• Doors: 2
• Year: 1972
• Mileage: 19800
• Color: White
• Engine size: 400 cid
• Number of cylinders: 8
• Fuel: Gasoline
• Transmission: Automatic
• Drive type: 2WD
• Interior color: Black
• Drive side: Left-Hand Drive
• Vehicle Title: Clean
Want to buy? Contact seller!