1966 Ford F100 Patina Pickup White RWD Automatic Custom Cab

1966 Ford Pickup Custom Cab

Vehicle Details

1966 Ford F100, 390 FE big block, with C6 automatic transmission. I pulled this original Custom Cab, short wheel base, V8, from a central California field and performed a full, and I mean every nut and bolt customization/restoration. I disassembled the truck during my early retirement years and performed a full frame off restoration. I will mention everything, and all I restored, which is every nut and bolt. If you purchase the truck, when it is shipped to you, it will be exactly as described in this ad. There will not be one surprise!

I have restored cars and trucks my whole 51 years on this earth and put my heart and soul into this one. The reason I bought this F100, was to have a retirement restoration project and my Grandpa had a 1964 F100 when I was young. But, I have found that I enjoy the building and restoring part of vehicles more than when it’s all finished. I’ve been to many car shows over the years, but the gentleman with the opposing car/truck gets too emotional about a $15 trophy, car/truck shows can start to suck. Last year, this 1966 F100 won first place at a muscle draggers show, in the truck division. You may have the trophy if you like. So, now you know why I’m selling, it’s time for another project truck.

The longest single drive has been 105 miles, and it performed flawlessly. I’ve run errands and driven it around for approximately 2,000 miles and all (I think) the bugs are worked out-fixed-. I recognize my deficiencies and when I do, it means a extreme professional has done the work. I performed all the restoration/custom work except for the motor build, the transmission build, making the new side exhaust, and tuning the timing and carburetor to perfect running condition.

Exterior:

I hand sanded with 600 grit wet sandpaper the whole body, to take off the previous owners black spray bomb paint. All metal which was bare and shiny was then treated to a water/vinegar/salt mixture, which causes a faux rust to happen. *There are no real rust holes except for the rear bottom area of the cab corners, and the front of the bed floor. I will explain, I think the rear bottom cab corners look cool, so I left them. The front bed area detached from the front bed wall, so I installed a wood bed to cover it. The rust was treated with por15 and then covered with an undercoating called lizard skin. The cab corners are perfect on the actual corner, it’s the area under the bed which has rust holes. Pictures can be provided. I mounted the front bed panel to the wood floor, so there is no problem there either. As I said, you are going to know this truck, before you buy. Each body panel was removed, Eastwood’s clear shiny coated and then reinstalled with restored hardware. That’s right, even the bolts and nuts were patina restored/clear coated. The door hinges were also restored with new pins and bushings. The hood hinges are new and patina painted to match the truck. The tailgate hardware is all proper and the tailgate opens and closes very nicely. The hood, doors and tailgate open and close with the perfect clunk/latch.

Chrome/stainless:

All the chrome and stainless is intact and very presentable. The bumpers are original, dented, scratched, but look perfect on the truck. The Custom cab side body 3” trim was removed and holes filled previously. It is an original Custom Cab truck with all the bells and whistles (chrome/stainless). I found and installed a correct aluminum grille and headlight surrounds. I did not polish it as it wouldn’t look right on this truck, but I did repaint the proper black around the headlight area. I found the original holes and installed correct Custom Cab door script. I did have the stainless front window trim polished and installed. The front hood badge is wrong, it is a inline 6 badge, not a V8 badge as this truck should have, but I like the inline 6 badge better. The side window drip moldings are a new reproduction and look period cool.

Rubber/weatherstripping:

All weatherstripping is new and I believe from Daniel Carpenter. The cowl weatherstripping, windshield weatherstripping, rear window weatherstripping, hood badge pad, vent window weatherstripping, door weatherstripping, side window weatherstripping and felt, hood rubber bumpers, door rubber bumpers, tailgate rubber bumpers, outside door handle gaskets are all new and in peak condition.

Glass:

The side glass windows, vent glass windows, and rear glass window are all 1966 original, but have been polished with Eastwood glass polish, before installation. The front windshield is new and there is not one scratch or chip.

Interior:

The interior is really cool and partially custom. It has all the Custom cab stainless, but it is not an original bucket seat truck. The original seat for this truck would have been a bench seat, but I’m 6’4” and utilizing the bucket seat option gives you approximately 2” of more room to the steering wheel and 2” more headroom. The rare option of bucket seats was only available with the Ranger option. I found reproduction bucket seat mounts for the 1966 F100. I reupholstered two 1966 Mustang seats with new TMI foam and upholstery. They are comfortable and in new/perfect condition. The seats slide on restored guides and there are no issues. The interior floor and roof were lined with dynamat. The roof was lined with dynaliner to protect from the heat beating down. The complete inside of the cab, (roof, back panel, floor, and firewall), were lined with rubberized lizard skin undercoating. A new black molded carpet kit was used. An original (found in a junkyard) clear rubber truck floor mat was used to protect the new carpet. A Lokar leather boot is used for the shifter boot. The steering column was completely rebuilt with new bearings and installed. That is a mint condition Moto Lita, British, polished spoke, wood rim steering wheel. New plastic door panels were installed and are surrounded completely by Custom cab stainless trim. The door latches and window cranks were restored. Custom cab zippered door pockets were also installed, and are in new mint condition. The heater box was rebuilt with new foam weatherstripping and a new heater core. An original radio was installed, but it is for show and does not work at all. I installed a new reproduction 1966 Mustang rally pack, but for the weirdest reasons, it doesn’t keep good time and the RPM tachometer is off RPM, due to the pertronix ignition. The speedometer works and shows approximately 45 miles on the odometer. The speedometer reads 10 mph slow, so it needs another plastic gear (tooth count), to be accurate. The gas gauge works and shows 3/4 full, when the tank is actually full. There is no gas tank in the cab, but I kept the original filler spout and put a red rag in it for fun. (The tank is under the bed). The dash lights work, the alternator light (dummy) and oil (dummy) light work. There is an aftermarket mechanical oil gauge and an volt gauge in the dash panel. The reason the dash panel is standard gauges and not the Custom cab gauges is I used a donor wiring harness from a standard truck and the dash panels are not interchangeable. This is an original Custom cab truck! The figiking under dash a/c unit is completely restored and ready to hook up. It is not currently plumbed or wired. The windshield wiper motor and arms are restored, but not wired up to the harness, it doesn’t rain in central Cali. The heater blower motor is not wired up to the switch, it’s not cold here either. The cigarette lighter isn’t wire connected, I don’t smoke! And the horn isn’t installed. There are no wiring issues and the wiring harness is perfect and isn’t hacked up. I just haven’t finished what isn’t important to me.

Wiring:

The under dash harness is an original and perfect. The steering column turn signal switch is new and perfect. The tail light harness is un altered and perfect. The under hood harness is new and perfect. The headlight harness is the bypass type and perfect. No wiring issues or bird nests. Everything is un chopped and properly electrical taped. The tail lights function properly, the headlights, the turn signals, it all works.

Suspension:

The complete suspension was rebuilt with new bushings, tie rod ends, and power steering box. The rear leaf springs were disassembled, lined with plastic spring liner and a axle flip kit was installed, with a C notch. A leaf spring extended bracket was used which resulted in a approximate 7” rear drop. Low! New gas shocks were installed. The rear axle shafts were completely rebuilt with new bearings and gaskets. New rear brake drums were installed and everything was clear coated. The rear 9” axle is a single peg leg with. 3:50 gear and was not rebuilt, but new gear oil was installed. The front suspension is completely new and drop beams were used. 2” lowered drop coil springs were also used for a approximate drop of 6”. Bell tech front shocks were sized and used. 1973 Ford F100 front disk brakes were installed with new king pins, rotors, bearings, and calipers. A front 1” sway bar was added and a professional front alignment was completed. The truck drives straight and does not pull anywhere.

Engine:

It is a 390 FE motor out of 1969 station wagon and was completely rebuilt by my personal Ford mechanic. New pistons, rings, heads, bearings, oil pump, gaskets, everything. Nothing was reused except for the crankshaft. Everything went to the machine shop and was rebuilt, reground. It has flat top pistons and a Lunati VooDoo camshaft with hydraulic lifters. The heads were rebuilt and are what you consider poor mans GT heads. The intake manifold is a 390 FE lowriser, with a street avenger Holley four barrel carburetor. It has a pertronix distributor and spark plug wires. New hoses and fan belts and water pump. It runs extremely well and needs nothing!

Transmission:

It is a C6 automatic transmission out of the same 1969 station wagon and has been completely professionally rebuilt, with a shift kit. Shifting is accomplished through a 24” lokar floor mounted in cab shifter. There are no shifting problems and the transmission is perfect without leaks. The driveline was rebuilt and repainted with new U joints.

It has a universal 20? Gallon frame mounted gas tank, bought from LMC. It’s a great tank and I rubber mounted it for a professional look. Only thing is the gas gauge reads about 3/4-7/8 full, when the tank is full.

Tires/rims

All lug stems and chrome lug nuts are new. He valve stems are new. The original 5 1/2”x15” rims are powder coated gloss black with proper polished stainless Ford dog dish hub caps. The tires are almost new 2,000 miles?, and a spare tire with white rim is included.

I have all the parts to complete the under dash A/C unit install, the compressor, condenser, dryer, pullies, brackets. The under dash unit is restored to use modern refrigerant.

I have a horn, but just never installed.

The truck has a custom hidden trailer hitch receiver, behind the rear license plate.

It’s just a cool truck, if you have any questions call/text 1-559-341-0054

Or email dawhitfield67@gmail.com

I do not need any help selling this truck and will not respond to spam or stupid questions.

You must arrange shipping and if you must ask the wife or girlfriend before buying, please do. I’m an honest guy, selling an extremely cool, honest truck.

Want to buy? Contact seller!