1987 Buick Turbo T Regal (like Grand National; T-Type) NEWLY BUILT MOTOR, TRANS

1987 Buick Grand National Turbo T

This is a no-reserve auction for a 1987 Buick Turbo Regal, AKA Turbo T, with just over 40K on the odometer. I'm assuming it's 140K actual miles. The motor and transmission have just been professionally rebuilt...with less than 1,200 miles on them. I had the motor built by Nick Micale in Phoenix in early 2015, who is one of the best known motor builders for Grand Nationals / Turbo Regals in the country. The transmission was built by his personal trans builder and is built to handle 9's.
This is my 6th TR since 1997. I've owned four GN's and two Turbo Regals. Two were stock, two had some bolt-on mods, one I had built similarly to this. Point being...I know a bit about them. ;)
I absolutely love this machine, but it's vehicle #3, and tight finances dictate that it must be sold. The receipt for the motor and trans from Nick Micale is $10,375. All in all, I've put about $17K into it...and that's not including the car itself. As they say...my loss is your gain, in a major way.
After getting the car back from Nick Micale (and a miscommunication about how much port work I wanted done on heads), I decided to upgrade to Champion max-ported heads ($1,400). So we negotiated for him to send me a new pair. I installed those, with 140# valve springs. While I was at it, the time was right to upgrade the cam from the 206/206 flat tappet cam to a...that's right - 212/212 (.504/.504 lift) *roller* cam. And...had to go with roller rockers as well. So it's a "full roller" motor now ($2K).
The power increase after these mods was phenomenal. Okay, she was no slouch before. But the CNC ported Champion heads (with oversized valves), roller cam and rockers woke this motor up in a MAJOR way. Though I haven't dynoed it, I'm convinced it makes over 500 hp and 600 lb/ft torque. It's built for and running E85 as you will see below, with an E85 chip. The chip is designed for 23-25 psi boost. I've only got it up to ~20 psi so far. I can only imagine how it would feel with 4-5 more psi.Close to 600whp I suspect (and probably knocking on the door of 700 lb/ft torque). In short, it is one hellacious, brutally fast TR.
Build (have all major receipts, plus a bevy of the others):
- Balanced & blueprinted stock block, bored 0.030 over, fully machined and decked
- Forged pistons
- Forged crank
- Champion max-ported Irons (no receipt, but email records from Nick)

- 140# valve springs

- Cometic head gaskets
- ARP head studs
- Comp Cams 212/212 (.504/.504 lift) roller cam
- TA Performance hydraulic roller lifters
- Comp Cams double roller timing chain
- TD roller rockers; 1.55 ratio
- Upgraded flexplate
- Upgraded steel balancer
- RJC Front Mount Intercooler ($900)
- Dual Ball Bearing Precision Turbo; Pro-Boosted 757197-4-GSX - 60-1 GSX Billet CW Stage3 CHRA ($1,200)
- LT1 3" Mass Air Flow Sensor w/GEN II Translator
- High efficiency radiator
- RJC aluminum crank pulley
- DW301 fuel pump, hotwired
- 80# injectors
- E85 TurboTweak tunable chip (adjustable fuel and timing)
- "Biggie" oil filter adaptor (uses much larger oil filter now)
200-4R 4-speed (BRF code) Transmission:
- Alto Red Wideband 1st Gear
- Billet forward drum
- Alto Red direct clutches
- Hardened forward clutch
- Dual fed, 10-vane pump
- HP 2nd and 3rd gear clutches
- Super servo
- Cast aluminum deep well trans pan with cooling fins
- Upgraded Hughes D5 high stall lock-up torque convertor; ~2,600 rpm stall
Scanmaster ECM realtime parameters multi-gauge device (also used to tune TurboTweak chip)
ECM modified for Power Logger tuning software (Power Logger software discincluded)
New (not rebuilt) AC Delco 120 amp alternator
Terry Houston style 3" downpipe
Stainless Steel SS Pypes dual exhaust
New Nitto 275 60R 15 Drag Radials
New BFG radials in front
Newer brakes
Vacuum brake system (upgrade from OEM Master Power)
Bilstein shocks
Upgraded (1.125", I believe) front swaybar (handles great)
Boxed lower control arms
New powder-coated gas tank (Canadian made)

Oil pressure gauge (wiring not complete, that's what long red wire is in engine bay)

Included, but not installed:

B&M trans cooler (new in box)

Extra OEM wheel and zero to low miles tire (condition of tire otherwise unknown)

Extra driver's side seat base/rails (at least one, might have two...forget)

Extra crack-free dash

Two more new-in-box wheel center caps (like one on front, driver's side wheel)

15 new OEM style wheel lug nuts (front driver wheel side are in installed)

(I might have more stuff, keep remembering and revising)

Some education, if you're not aware: This is a relatively rare TR. They only made 4,268 Regals in '87 with the LC2 option code (the same as the GN); the infamous turbo V6 drivetrain. But this car has some even more rare options - it's an "all chrome car". Most of the non-GNs had the black-out package. But this one not only has the chrome package, but the rare chrome trim option that the Limiteds had, which includes the chrome band running along the sides, the hood ornament, and just chrome everywhere, man. Sleeper? Affirmative. It also has the rare front and rear aluminum bumper supports option, which lightens it by ~45 lbs vs. the steel supports. This, combined with aluminum wheels (vs. the GNs steel wheels), makes it significantly lighter than GNs. I've also removed the sound deadening material from below the backseat and carpet (didn't make it any louder), which shed another 40 lbs.
This motor was built with fine precision and expertise. I changed the oil at 100 miles after upgrading the heads and cam. It now has about 1,100 miles on it since then. The oil looks like I changed it yesterday...still crystal clear.
The entire body is virtually rust free.There is only the slightest *surface* rust beneath doors.No rust on any body panels, in wheel wells, etc. The paint is in okay to good shape, as you can see from the photos.I've hit the hood and trunk with rubbing compound, and I'd say it took to about a 7/10. Overall, it's *very* straight, but as you can see, there is a deep scrape in the passenger door (and relatively minor imperfection next to it in body panel). It needs new bumper fillers. Other than that, the car is very solid. Doors, hood and trunk alignment are about as good as it gets (i.e., flush) for these cars.Suspension is very tight. Brakes are great. Drives straight down the freeway. Heater works (as good as it can with the 160 degree thermostat). No radio. Interior is about a 7/10. Sun visors are shot.Carpet is good, but has stains.May come out with a shampooing.Crack in top of dash, but I have a good dash that comes with sale.

Items of mention (beyond that which one would expect from a 30 y.o. car) that need repaired:All A/C components are there to my knowledge, but not converted, so no A/C.The gauge cluster has a short, which caused it to stop charging the alternator.I purchased a "field fix harness" from Casper's Electronics, which bypasses the cluster, and charges the alternator.The speedo cable stopped spinning 90-100 miles ago.The lock-up function of the torque convertor is dependent on the mph reading...so no lock-up of the TC until that's fixed (worked great before speedo cable went out).The tilt steering wheel mechanism is loose.There's a great DIY fix-it vid on youtube, which requires getting into the tilt assembly on the column and tightening adjustment screws.Requires a special tool, which comes with sale. It has some valvetrain voice, but I've read that with this build, it's normal/to be expected.Before realizing this, we (my local mechanic and I) adjusted the roller rockers twice, and they were within spec. It has a small oil leak (~1" diameter after sitting overnight) at the rear of the motor.Rear main seal is new, so my guess is it's either the oil pan or at the of a valve cover. The TV cable (the cable that attaches at the throttle body and tells the trans when to shift) might need to be replaced.On occasion, during heavy throttle, it'll stick, causing the shift points to remain higher than desired afterward.The immediate remedy is to turn off motor, put in park, depress gas pedal to floor, and it will reset to the proper shift points every time (this is the same procedure for setting the TV cable's shift points, FYI).But I suspect the TV cable is original, and frayed or stretched.

Though it has an HE radiator core (stock tanks), the FMIC has it asking for an upgraded radiator fan if when driving in the summer.This isn't an issue at all in cooler temps, or driving less than a half hour in the summer.Upgraded rad fans are common upgrades if driving long distances in summer months with an FMIC with these TRs.
I've accounted for the imperfections and issues. Otherwise, I'd be insisting on over $20K. High retail KBB value is over $28K.Average retail is $15K...and that's not one with ~1,200 miles on a new very thoughtfully, precision built motor and trans by one of the most reputable TR motor builders in the country.
Note: I've only taken it to the 1/8th mile track one time last summer (3 runs on the drag radials; and didn't launch hard). Point being...I've babied it. The miles are mostly breaking it in, then looking for contenders to race in my sleepy town of Fountain, Colorado. And I've always warmed it up to >120 degrees before pulling out of the garage, and grandma'ed it until it reached 160 degrees coolant temp. And...always let the turbo properly cool down as well.

I've represented my car as accurately and thoroughly(whew!) as I possibly can.But do not hesitate to call or text me at 719-209-2840 with any questions. Because otherwise, you are bidding and buying "as-is".

$1,000 non-refundable deposit due within 24 hours after end of auction. Balance due with7 days after end of auction. DO NOT BID if you cannot meet these terms.

• Condition: Used
• Make: Buick
• Model: Grand National
• SubModel: Turbo T
• Type: Coupe
• Trim: Turbo T
• Year: 1987
• Mileage: 40,000
• VIN: 1G4GJ1170HP410468
• Color: Gray
• Number of cylinders: 6
• Power options: Power Windows
• Fuel: E85
• Transmission: Automatic
• Drive type: RWD
• Drive side: Left-hand drive
• Vehicle Title: Clear
Want to buy? Contact seller!