1966 TR4A IRS Wire Wheels Running Driving SU Carbs NO RESERVE Spitfire TR6 TR4
- Condition: Used
- Make: Triumph
- Model: TR4A
- SubModel: IRS
- Type: U/K
- Trim: Base
- Year: 1966
- Mileage: 60,290
- VIN: CTC 68579 L
- Color: Red
- Engine size: 2.1L 2138CC 130Cu. In. l4 GAS OHV Naturally Aspirated
- Number of cylinders: 4
- Fuel: Gasoline
- Transmission: 4-Speed Manual
- Drive type: U/K
- Interior color: Black
- Options: Convertible
- Vehicle Title: Clear Want to buy? Contact seller!
1966 Triumph TR4A IRS
1966 Triumph TR-4A I.R.S. **NO RESERVE** **PRICE DROP**
Car is located in the suburbs of Chicago, zip code 60068. Call Dave at 608-217-3562 with questions.
Triumph produced a total of 28,465 TR4s from 1965-1967. This car is a 1966, one of 11,097 produced that year. Four cylinders with a 2138 cc engine and 105 h.p.
Running and driving car with MANT new parts recently installed from Moss Motors. Original “Signal Red” car; paint code 32. Black interior with white piping. 4 speed, non-overdrive. Lefthand drive. Twin SU carbs. Rear drum, front disc brakes. Original IRS car, as noted by the second “C” in the VIN.
Unique features: The IRS option, wire knock off wheel option (including wire spare), twin SU carbs, Triumph radio.
VIN #: CTC 68579 L
BODY #: 69294 CT
MILAGE: 60, xxx
TITLE: Wisconsin. Clear. No lien. (in seller's name)
As you can see, this car is an original survivor, yet is still in need of work. By work, mainly body work and paint. This car was in a garage since the early 1990s, and we brought it back to life. We spent over $1000.00 in parts from Moss Motors getting this TR-4A IRS back on the road where it deserves to be! Leave as is (with some improvements) or restore!
Get into a true, classic convertible with wire wheels for a fraction of the cost of other vintage cars, and a lot fun! This car is a charmer in person! The patina is great.
WORK DONE IN FALL of 2015:
-Removed head, installed new head gasket.
-Cleaned, de-carboned pistons, head, ground the valves, installed all new valve lifter cups.
-Torqued the head to proper specs from the workshop manual.
-Cleaned and painted the head.
-New valve cover gasket.
-Removed exhaust header, cleaned, painted, installed new gaskets to the block and lower exhaust.
-New cogged fan belt.
-New fuel pump.
-New copper fuel line from gas tank to fuel pump, and up to carbs.
-Removed gas tank, flushed it out.
-Cleaned and freed up the fuel sender unit in gas tank.
-New thermostat and gasket. Cleaned housing.
-New radiator hoses.
-Removed radiator, painted it, had it cleaned out and leak checked at a shop.
-Cleaned, rebuilt and synched both SU carbs.
-New air filters for each carb.
-Installed fuel filter.
-Replaced the ignition switch and key.
-100% new braking system.
-Every brake line replaced with the kit made in UK, when I say every one, I mean it! (I wouldn’t wish that job on anyone! No kinks in lines, used proper bender)
-New brake master cylinder.
-Removed and painted housing for brake/clutch master.
-New front brake rotors.
-New front brake pads.
-Front calipers rebuilt with kit, cleaned and painted.
-Rear drums sanded inside and out and painted.
-New rear brake shoes (Note: parking brake not hooked up)
-New rear wheel brake cylinders on both sides.
-New clutch master cylinder.
-New braided line to clutch slave cylinder.
-All fluids changed (oil, trans, brake, clutch, rear diff, coolant)
-New oil filter, painted the housing.
-Removed engine pan, completely cleaned out sludge, painted it.
-New engine pan gasket.
-New cap & rotor
-New spark plug wires (modern style, plug in).
-New spark plugs (4).
-Removed the starter motor, tested it, greased the gear.
-Every grease fitting I could find removed, cleaned, and re-greased.
-Made panel that covers gas tank in the trunk, and attached original panel to the panel I made.
-Made new aluminum bracket to secure battery.
-Made an aluminum "L" shaped patch where the trunk floor meets the body under the gas tank area of the trunk. Neatly used rubberized rust proofing between the new panel and body, the pop riveted it in, primed it and spray painted it red. Rest of trunk is solid.
More on the condition of this car:
The car is a strong runner, engine starts with choke, and smoothes out nicely as you push the choke in. Balance your favorite nickel on the value cover. Engine pulls nicely. The car wants to really go, but the old tires say otherwise. Note, it pops out of second gear-but if you slightly ride the clutch it doesn’t do it (clutch adjustment? Worn synchro?). Other than that, you can run through the gears no problem. Since brake system is all new, the brakes need to be bled again to make them perfect (i ran out of time to bleed them again). Brakes work great with an extra pump. Tires are old, mismatched and cracked. They hold air. Most things work on the car. Here are some notable exceptions: missing one horn, horn does not work, the tach doesn’t work (didn’t have time to investigate, grease cable?), the tail lights do not work when lights are on (brake lights work, headlights work, turn signals work, generator light works,…), parking brake unhooked, front sidemarker lights not working, radio turns on but no speaker (didn’t try hooking one up yet, speaker wire is hanging down). Battery is probably 5+ years old, not sure just how old. The paint is pretty much shot (faded, spidered, looks like the car cover stuck to the trunk at some point). No doubt the car need paint! The front drivers side has a dent at the side marker (see picture). There is surface rust and dings here and there and over there. The car overall is solid (I had it jacked up every which way to Saturday and spent countless hours underneath it, trusting my life to it). The end of the frame on the drivers side is soft, but the part is non-load bearing.
Obviously the front panel under the bumper needs replacement. You can buy that part from Moss Motors. The original cardboard transmission cover is flaking away, especially on the passenger side footwell. I would splice in a new piece. The grab handle under the glove box needs to be replaced. The wood on the dash is pretty nice, does not appear to have ever been refinished. Has cracks in the finish. Overall, the car has great patina (if you are into that sort of thing).
Believe me, I saved you way more time, money and headaches than you think getting the car to where it is at! If you were hoping to do all that work yourself, there are plenty of other cars for you to bid on. This car is a great compromise to those high priced cars out there.
MARKET FOR THIS CAR:
Soon the average guy will be priced out of EVERY vintage car that is even REMOTELY desirable.
Triumph "globe" hood emblem. 3 workshop manuals (they cost over $100 for the three).The front chrome bumper (not pictured). The rear chrome bumperettes with lights for the license plate (not pictured). The tonneau cover, the parade boot cover, the original jack, jack handle, the wire spare, the original tool pouch (no tools), the old rubber Triumph floor mats and some of the old parts we removed and replaced. Also, a reproduction Owners Manual. Also the made in England Triumph key fob.
$500.00 deposit due with 48 hours of the sale via PAYPAL. Pay the balance within a week by bank check or direct deposit. Call me to work these details out. You are responsible for pick up! We can store the car for you for about 2 weeks.
***Get your shipper ready BEFORE the end of the auction! Be prepared! Do NOT delay with payment or picking up the car, PLEASE.
CAR SOLD “AS IS.” YOU UNDERSTAND THAT IT IS A 50-YEAR OLD CAR IN NEED OF WORK. IT IS A PROJECT CAR. THERE ARE NO EXPRESSED WARRANTIES. THERE ARE IMPLIED WARRANTIES. THERE ARE NO WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND. DO NOT BID IF YOU HAVE ANY RESERVATIONS ABOUT ITS CONDITION.
THERE ARE NO RETURNS. YOU MEET THE RESERVE, YOU BOUGHT THE CAR. PLEASE CALL AND ASK ANY QUESTIONS. YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE TO KNOW WHAT YOU ARE BIDDING ON!!!! IT IS YOUR HAND THAT IS ENTERING A BID.