Custom Built Jeep CJ7 Rock Crawler with Many Options
- Condition: Used
- Make: Jeep
- Model: CJ
- Type: Convertible
- Year: 1980
- Mileage: 100,000
- VIN: NCS88722
- Color: Blue and Black
- Engine size: 360 Fuel Injected V8
- Number of cylinders: 8
- Fuel: Gasoline
- Transmission: Automatic
- Drive type: 4WD
- Interior color: Black
- Options: 4-Wheel Drive, CD Player, Convertible
- Vehicle Title: Clear Want to buy? Contact seller!
1980 Jeep CJThis is an extremely well built Rock Crawler with numerous options. It has been titled and plated in NC as a 2007 home built vehicle. Everything works on the crawler. Below is adetaileddescription of the options and how to operate the crawler. Please call me if you have any questions. Thanks, ill (919) 522-8005
Jeep CJ7 Rock Crawler Specs and OperationDurabak Exterior Lined
Blue Metallic Paint
Poison Spyder Fenders
Borgeseen Steering Shaft
Mean Green Alternator
360 AMC with "Bomb Proof " Motor Mounts
Twin Flex-A-Lite Fans
Edelbrock Airgap Intake
Howell TBI Fuel Injected
Torque Flight 727 Transmission – 2 quart Extra Capacity and Cooling Fins
B&M Bandit Shifter
Fan Cooled Trans Fluid Cooler
Dana 300 Twin stick
Advanced Adaptors 32 Spline Output Shaft Electronic Brake Hold for Front and Rear Dig
Low Max 4: 1Transfer Case Gears
Dana 60 Kingpin Front Diff, :56 Gears, etroit Locker, 5 Spline Axles
Corporate 14 Bolt Rear Diff, :56 Gears, etroit Locker
Blue Torch Fab Hig_h Steering
ARG Hydraulic Assist Steering Fan
Power Steering Cooler
Stretched to 104" Wheel Base
Samm's HD Traction/Anti-Wrap Bar
Rancho 2.5" Springs
Spring Over Front Axle
Rubicon Express Rear Springs
High Angle CV Rear Driveshaft
High Angle Front Driveshaft
1" Body Lift
Daystar Zero Lift Front Shackles
Daystar 1" Rear Shackles
Front Warrior Spring Hangers
Poison Spyder Full Width Kit
Blue Torch Rear Disc Brake Conversion
Super Lift Steel Braided Brake Lines
Rancho RS 9000 Shocks Relocated and Beefed Up Mounts
Brand New Super Swamper Iroc Radials 41x13.50x20
20x10 Chrome Wheels
Warn 8274-50 Winch With In Cab Controls
Hella Rally Lights forward and Under Rock Lights
Kilby on Board Air System
Moe Special Widget Built Swing Out Tire Carrier – To Be Mounted
Full roll cage – Soft Tops Fit over Cage
Best Top Super Top and a Bikini Top
Four Point Seat Belts
New Hunsaker Racing Seats
New Rear Passenger Seat
“Rhino Lined” Inside Cab
Diamond Plate Installed in Bed
Optima Red Top Battery
Currie Steering Box Brace
Clarion Marine grade CD player CB
Heat and Defrost Function
Cranking and General Operation
Flip Master Battery Cut off to On position (Marked on Dash under glove box door with a "ON OFF" sticker.) .
Jeep will then crank as any normal vehicle with the key. Little to no gas needs be given as motor is TBI. Motor needs three minutes of warm up to operate normally.
Engine Coolant fans are automatic and will come on when engine reaches 190 degrees. This temperature can be adjusted with the variable rheostat located behind the radiator overflow bottle .It works the best where I have it set.
The blue duckbill toggle switch under the radio, s the Transmission and power steering cooling fan combo. When the temperature on the trans cooler gauge gets into the "Yellow'' I generally would turn this fan on.
The rest of the duck bill switches under the radio are air compressor on/of, orward Hella lights on/off, nd under chassis lights on/off.
Green button next to steering column is the electronic rear brake hold button. This switch is deactivated due to the solenoid under the driver's seat inside frame rail shorted out.
These are cheep and can be purchased through Jegs or Summit. See catalog tear out. It is disabled via a spade connector under the fire extinguisher. If you set this back up do not operate this button for more than 1minute at a time. To operate pump brakes two hard times on the second stroke down hold pedal down and push in the green button. The small light right beside switch will let you know that the rear brakes are now locked. To
unlock the rear simply push the green button again and the brake will release. Although I installed this to allow for front and rear digs. I very rarely used it.
The double throw switch on the left side of the steering column is the winch" in- out" controller. It operates as marked.
All other controls and switches work as marked.
Transmission shifter works as marked but be aware that the engine will crank in all gears. This is beneficial in some circumstances but dangerous in others.
Shut down the engine by simply shutting off the key. Then shutting down the master battery switch to the "Off ' position.
Transfer Case operation
Transfer case will take some getting used to. Both levers have three positions. All the way forward, enter position, nd all the way back.
Lever on the left operates the rear end. Lever on the right operates the front end.
When both levers are pushed all the way forward you are in 4x4 low. When both levers are all the back you are in 4x4 High
When the rear (Left) lever is all the way back and the front (right) lever is in the Neutral, iddle position. You are in regular 2wd drive mode. You can push the left lever all the way forward and be in 2wd Low range as well.
The right lever works the same. When the left lever is in neutral, he right lever can go from front wheel only High (all the way back) to front wheel only low, ll the way forward.
While crawling you will spend 98% of your time with both levers forward. 4x4 Low.
Going from trail to trail you may drop into two wheel drive by putting both levers to the neutral positio, Middle) then pulling the left or rear wheel lever all the way back .
When changing transfer case gears there can be no load on the drive train. Put the transmission into neutral before making transfer case gear changes. Sometimes you have to stop. Go to neutral then reverse, hen back to neutral to offload the drivetrain. You will get used to it.
You can drive with the hubs locked or unlocked between trails. It doesn't affect it too much.
If your going to be in a position that the jeep may roll or flop on its side. Drop the windshield frame down. If you roll with the windshield frame up it does extensive damage to the cowl and destroys the windshield frame.
The air filter is a K&N. I ran Castrol 20w-50 in the motor.
Dextron in the Transmission. Synthetic Power steering fluid.
80w 90 dope in the front and rear-end and the Transfer case.
The two metal things in the glove box are tools that slide on either side of the radio that
unlock it and allow it to be taken out easily. The small slightly bent rod in the glove box is the air compressor oil level dipstick. There is a small bolt on the topside of the compressor that you remove and stick this rod into all the way to the bottom. There must be at least Yi' showing on stick. If not add "Air Compressor" oil through the hole.
This is almost a zero maintenance Item and I have only had to add oil once in five years. The big chrome knobs in the glove box arc the windshield frame bolts. The left one has a nut fixed to the back of dash, ust screw it in. The right one you have to run your hand up behind the dash and hold in the hole, he elongated nu, once it catches it will hold it self while you tighten it up.
Cleaning and Maintenance:
Always put a garbage bag over the air cleaner before washing. Remember to remove it after washing as it will destroy the air filter and frame if you crank it up with the bag on it. You can spray the whole jeep down with simple green and wash.
Afterwards lwould allow drying then spray everything metal with WD-40 and let sit. If the top is on you can spay the whole top and blue area with armor all and when it dries it will look like new money. You will have to clean the windows but it really makes it pop.
Check the Transfer case bolts the steering heim bolts and the High steer arms after every ride.