1964.5, 1964 ½, 1965, Ford Mustang Coupe V8 260, 64.5, 64 ½, 65
- Condition: Used
- Make: Ford
- Model: Mustang
- SubModel: Coupe / Hard Top
- Type: Coupe
- Trim: 2-Door Coupe / Hard Top
- Year: 1965
- Mileage: 67,600
- VIN: 5F07F115067
- Color: Red
- Engine size: 260 V8 (4.3L), 2bbl carb
- Number of cylinders: 8
- Fuel: Gasoline
- Transmission: Automatic
- Drive type: RWD
- Interior color: Black
- Vehicle Title: Clear Want to buy? Contact seller!
1965 Ford Mustang Coupe / Hard TopBrief history:
The Ford Mustang, two-seat, ront-engine sports car, as officially unveiled by Henry Ford II at the World’s Fair in Flushing Meadows, ew York, n April 17, 964. That same day, he new car also debuted in Ford showrooms across America; nearly 22,000 Mustangs were immediately snapped up by buyers. Named for a World War II fighter plane, he Mustang was the first of a type of vehicle that came to be known as a “pony car.” Ford sold more than 400,000 Mustangs within its first year of production, ar exceeding sales expectations.
The Mustang was conceived as a “working man’s Thunderbird,” according to Ford. The first models featured a long hood and short rear deck and carried a starting price tag of around $2,300. Ford general manager Lee Iacocca, ho became president of the company in October 1964 (he later headed up Chrysler and was credited with reviving it in the 1980s) was involved in the Mustang’s development and marketing. The car’s launch generated great interest. It was featured on the covers of Newsweek & Time magazines, nd, he night before it went on sale, he Mustang was featured in commercials that ran simultaneously on all three major television networks. One buyer in Texas reportedly slept at a Ford showroom until his check cleared and he could drive his new Mustang home. The same year it debuted, he Mustang appeared on the silver screen in the James Bond movie “Goldfinger.”
Up for auction is a nice looking 1965 Mustang 2-door Coupe. Many people call the very early Mustangs “1964 ½,” as there are significant differences between the models manufactured in ‘64 & ‘65. This car is an F code (5th digit in the VIN), eaning it has a 260 V8 (which was only supplied with Mustangs produced in 1964).
We’ve had this car for about 15 years and it was my daily driver for several of those years. I drove it long distances, ven in the snow and it was very dependable. Two times since we’ve owned it, t died on me for no apparent reason – I’m thinking it was vapor-lock (even though one of the times was when it was snowing). But quick shot of starter spray got it going both times, o now I keep a can in the trunk - just in case.
It was completely restored a few years before we got it, ncluding rebuilding the engine (by a firefighter I was told by the person I purchased it from).
I was in an accident in December 2003 (a driver pulled out of an espresso stand right in front of me and I T-boned her). Insurance covered the repair, ut I haven’t driven it much since then; partly because I got another car while it was in the shop, nd partly because I’m just afraid of something like that happening again. But now it’s time for it to find a new home.
It’s probably been close to 20 years since the restoration, nd it’s in need of some work again. Living in Washington hasn’t helped the rust which is popping up in all of the ‘usual’ places for this breed. And the engine, hich has smoked from the left bank since we’ve had it, s now beginning to do so from the right bank as well – probably time for a new set of rings.
I had the documentation for the rebuild and restoration, ut can’t currently find it – if I come across it after the sale I can forward it to you.
Even though this car has been previously restored, ust is beginning to form at all the typical places for the old Mustangs.
The car was painted Red with a clear-coat over it, ut the clear is beginning to peel (especially on the roof), nd rust is beginning to reemerge. The paint itself is still in very good condition.
The engine in the car had been rebuilt when I purchased it. Blue smoke has been coming from the left bank as long as I’ve had it and now, fter it’s sat for a number of years, t’s beginning to come from the right bank as well, o it could probably use a new set of rings. There are no knocks or rattles, nd no bad oil leaks.
The wheels are the 5-bolt style, hich I believe is what was used for the V8s (6-cylinders had 4 bolts).
Battery, istributor, ires, park plugs, oints (non-electronic), nd condenser are all still good (it’s been several years since they were replaced, ut driven very little since then). I haven’t needed to replace the coil or generator (it has a generator, ot an alternator, hich was typical of the early models).
2-Barrel carburetor hasn’t needed any work, lthough I do spray it occasionally with carb cleaner.
No problems with the valves or any other part of the engine that I’m aware of.
New air & oil filters just installed.
Radiator & hoses were replaced in January 2004. I purchased a coolant recovery bottle that I was going to try to put on in a way that would allow for easy removal (to keep it original), ut never installed it. That will come in a box along with several other parts and accessories. Currently it has a juice bottle for coolant recovery (it was there when I got it and seems to do the job).
As far as I know, t has the original 3-speed automatic transmission, riveshaft, nd rear end. I don’t know of any work that’s been done to them other than normal transmission service and checking the rear end fluid.
The whitewall tires are 12 years old, ut only have 6,600 miles on them; they still have good tread, ut keep in mind their age. They were siped prior to being installed for increased traction.
The leaf springs are sagging a bit (again, his is something typical of old Mustangs); I have a ‘helper spring’ kit that I bought but didn’t get installed and that will be included as well.
Steering and brakes
It has power steering and drum brakes. The brake pads do not have many miles on them. Currently the car pulls to the left when braking, ut I think that’s just from sitting – it should correct itself with a bit of driving, ut the brakes may need to be cleaned up a bit (there might be something sticking).
There is nothing wrong with the steering or linkage that I am aware of.The power steering uses the same fluid as the trans.
I haven’t had any trouble with the fuel system at all (well, ther than what I suspect was vapor lock). I purchased a new fuel filter before the accident and never got around to installing it; it will come with the car either installed or in the box along with the other parts.
The interior is in pretty good shape. It was painted black semi-gloss and the black seats & headliner do not have any rips or tears (in some of the pictures the headliner looks grayish, ut it’s actually black). The panel on the passenger door is coming loose as are some edges of the covering over the panel behind the rear seats (between the seats and the rear window).
The dash pad is in good shape, o tears or cracks.
The transmission shift lever is on the floor (on the hump); three speeds and a position for each one (which is handy for driving in the snow & ice - position 2).
Some of the door seals should be replaced or repaired. The carpet, hich is supposed to be black, as faded to a brown color at the hump. This could be easily remedied with some spray fabric paint or by just covering it up (a center console is also included).
The instrument cluster is in good condition – I believe all the gauges and lights work. I can’t verify the mileage, ut I’m pretty sure it’s more than the 67,000 miles shown. The bezel for the windshield wiper/washer is missing, ut the wiper switch still works (only on-and-off, o intermittent control on this). The windshield washer has never worked (bad motor I think); but everything is there. I bought a new kit and was going to use just the motor out of the kit so as to keep the original bag (yes, he windshield washer fluid is in a bag that hangs on the side of the engine compartment). That kit will also be included.
Part of the emergency/hand brake handle is broken so it’s a bit difficult getting a good hold of it to set it.
The rear window mechanism has a plastic piece that wore out, o I took the handle off so no one would use that window. I still have the handle and the piece that needs to be replaced, ut I never looked for a new one.
The glove box is clean and in perfect shape.
The original heater core is currently installed but it leaks; I have a new one (which will be included), ut it hasn't been installed. The hoses in the engine compartment have been routed to bypass the heater, o once the new core is installed, he hoses will have to be reconnected properly. The blower/fan still works to help keep you cool, ut you really need the heat for defrosting. When I was driving it all the time, used one of those heaters that plug into the cigarette lighter socket.
All 4 floor mats are in good shape, nd the front ones have the Mustang Pony on them.
The leather-wrapped, ented, teering wheel cover is in good shape.
The rear-view mirror has a lever for day and night settings.
The body is straight, ith no dents or dings – just the previously mentioned rust.
Most of the glass is original and still has the FoMoCo stamps on them. There are no cracks or chips in any of them, owever, ome of the side glass has some swirl marks along the bottom (apparently someone buffed the car with the windows up and unprotected).
Most of the chrome, ther than the wheels, s in good shape; there is a little rust/pitting, ut should be cleanable; nothing peeling.
The antenna is not original; the stock one broke when the cover I had on the car tried to blow off. The OEM looked difficult to replace so I just put on an after-market (it was supposed to be temporary but…).
Just installed new windshield wipers.
The underbody has a little rust, ut nothing rusted through, ut it would probably be wise to coat it with something before it does become an issue.
Exhaust pipes (dual exhaust) and mufflers are in good shape as far as I can tell; I’ve never had a problem with them.
The chrome on the 14” wheels is in pretty bad shape and would probably need to be removed and refinished, r replaced. If it’s just going to be a driver, t’s probably not a big deal, ut if you’re going to show it, hey’re not going to work.
New headlights (one spare included); taillights work but the driver’s side is not the original assembly (after-market), ut the lenses are still original.
Everything electrical works as it should to the best of my knowledge (other than the windshield washer), nd the horn is really weak for some reason.
The radio is not original, ut it is an AM/FM made for Mustangs (it says “Mustang” right on it). I have the original AM radio that will be included in the box of ‘stuff.’
The VIN, F07F115067, s stamped on top of the left apron in the engine compartment (just under the edge of the hood). The door tag was removed during the restoration and not replaced. I had it, ut can’t find it at the moment; if I locate it after the sale, can send it to you. You can also get a new one here: http://www.martiauto.com/tags.cfm
Title, egistration, nd insurance
We have a clean title in our names, nd the car has Collector Vehicle plates for Washington state (so it doesn’t have to be registered every year). It is currently insured through American Modern (http://www.amig.com/insurance/collector-car/).
Can I drive the car home? I wouldn’t recommend driving a classic car on a long trip until you have driven it around locally long enough to trust it on a longer drive.
This is an excellent opportunity to own one of the first Mustangs off the assembly line! I would estimate it is 95%-98% original… Andit’s way cool to have a ‘64 ½ Mustang!
Before anyone asks, o it does NOT have air conditioning.
I HAVE NO INTEREST IN ANY TRADES; I’m only selling it because I need the cash!
PLEASE COME AND LOOK AT AND DRIVE THE CAR IN PERSON IF YOU CAN. MY DESCRIPTION IS NOT AN INSPECTION; IT’S JUST MY OPINION/ASSESSMENT OF THE CAR.
I can be available to show the car just about any time that is convenient for you, just need about 24 hours notice.
Warranty InformationThis vehicle is not new! It’s old and things have been changed over the years! Please try to come and inspect it for yourself before you buy it. My standards may not be yours; I describe it as I see it. Things like engine size are based on what I am told by the past owner and my visual inspection, didn't look for casting numbers on the engine; come look if it makes a difference to you. This vehicle is being sold AS IS, HERE IS with NO warranty expressed, ritten, r implied. My description is not an inspection; it’s just to give you an idea of the condition of the car before you come to inspect it. The seller shall not be responsible for the correct description, uthenticity, enuineness, r defects herein, nd makes no warranty in connection therewith. No allowance will be made on account of any incorrectness, mperfection, efect, r damage. Any descriptions or representations are for identification purposes only and are not to be construed as a warranty of any type. It is the responsibility of the buyer to have thoroughly inspected the vehicle and to have satisfied themselves as to the condition and value and to buy based solely upon that judgment. The seller shall and will make every reasonable effort to disclose any known defects associated with this vehicle at the buyer's request prior to the close of sale. Seller assumes no responsibility for any repairs regardless of any oral statements about the vehicle.
BUYERS GUIDE: NO WARRANTY OFFERED!
Terms & ConditionsA $500 non-refundable deposit is required by PayPal within 24 hours of auction close; full payment must be made via cash or cashier’s check within 7 days of auction close.
Seller reserves the right to cancel bid by buyers with low or no feedback ratings.
Buyer to pay all shipping costs; I can suggest a couple, ut the decision is yours. I can deliver the car to you or a drop-off location that is within 30 miles of zip code 98270.
Dependable Auto Shippers http://www.dasautoshippers.com/
Horizon Auto Shipping; the best contact for them is Jim Page. His telephone number is 816-863-4299 and his email address is: firstname.lastname@example.orgThanks for looking and good luck on your bidding! J