1969 Camaro SS, 525hp LS3, Tremec, Quadra-Link, Resto-mod, Pro-Touring
- Condition: Used
- Make: Chevrolet
- Model: Camaro
- Type: Coupe
- Year: 1969
- Mileage: 30,000
- VIN: 124379N590744
- Color: Green
- Number of cylinders: 8
- Transmission: Manual
- Interior color: Black
- Drive side: Left-hand drive
- Vehicle Title: Clear Want to buy? Contact seller!
1969 Chevrolet Camaro
Be sure to scroll down the ad to see many high res photos. Here is a link to even more photos: http://s188.photobucket.com/user/jerhofer/library/1969%20Camaro?sort=3&page=1o:p>
1969 Camaro SS (X11 code)
Fathom Green Metallic
I bought this car in 2000 and it has been my baby ever since. I always tend to overkill things and use the best parts available. My ideal was for this car to be similar to the Trans-Am cars of that era, but as drivable as a modern car. Over the years it morphed into what it is today and has been very well sorted out.
Probably the biggest change was the installation of the Detroit Speed rear suspension, mini-tubs, reinforced frame rails, and huge custom subframe connectors. The big reason for this change was that my car suffered from the 1969 Camaro flexibility issues. The paint was cracking and it sounded like the car was coming apart when you drove over railroad tracks.
To fix this problem I overkilled the frame and body on this car. I just wasn’t satisfied with the available subframe connector kits and stock frame rails. My engineer intuition just didn’t think they would do enough. For this reason, formed rear frame rails were custom fit into the car and I built some custom sub-fame connectors out of NASCAR frame rail. They are the same cross section as the front subframe and twice the size of any other sub-fame connector I’ve seen. I ran them through the floor and welded them to the back of the subframe with large straps (could cut these to remove the subframe if needed). I also extended them back all the way to the upper control arm mounts for the 4 link. Essentially, this car has a full frame now from front to back. The difference was remarkable. It now glides over railroad tracks without shuddering and when you close the doors, there is a satisfying thunk. It is solid now. For this reason, the new paint should last a long time without the typical 1969 Camaro cracking issues. The car was painted during the fall of 2017.
This is a link to the build thread for installing the quadra link suspension:
After a couple first generation small blocks, the GMPP 376/525 was chosen for its simplicity, reliability, oil sealing, and retro sound. This engine has a camshaft that is more like a typical first gen small block cam. Modern camshafts have large lobe separation angles. These give a silky smooth idle. They use large amounts of lift to create power. The older style cams use much tighter lobe separations to get scavenging. This also causes reversion inefficiency but helps create that killer muscle car sound. The cam in this engine has a very tight lobe separation, but not a ton of lift. It makes great power, sounds good, but is also easy on valve train components. You could certainly get more power with a modern high-lift cam in this car, but you would also have to upgrade the rest of the valve-train to try to keep the reliability and would miss some of the retro sound. I know for a fact that this cam and valve train was used in ASA racing reliably for years with no rebuilds. For me, this engine was the perfect compromise for this car. I also re-fabricated the exhaust 3 times to get the sound just right. For me, this is one of the most fun parts of driving this car.
With this much power, the 5 speed Tremec gearbox is excellent. No need for a 6 speed. This gearbox has a very deep 3.27 first gear. This allows the use of a 3.08 rear end for great highway RPM. It launches on the traction limit of the drag radials, and cruises on the highway at around 2000 rpm.
I did get a bit greedy with the oversize drag radials because they are so much fun to launch the car with and look awesome under the car. They push the car to be a little drag-racy, but the car still handles great around corners. I do not have a rear anti-roll bar on it as a personal preference. The rear rolls over a bit on corner exit but allows putting a lot of power to the ground without the rear kicking out.
This is a very comfortable car to drive. The Recaro seats are excellent and the AC is nice and cold, however, I rarely turn the AC on since it just sounds so good with the windows open! The ride quality is perfect for me with its compromise between comfort and handling. I have a bad back, so I don’t like hard-sprung cars. Everything works on the car.
My reason for selling it is that I’d like to start a new project, but if I can’t get what I want for it, I have no problem keeping it…. I still love this car…. I have been driving it to work on nice days ever since I have had the car!!! This is a car you can drive anywhere.
Installed in 2013 (~30k Miles, odometer is set to this)
GMPP 376/525 hp LS3
GMPP Wiring Harness
GMPP Corvette Front Accessory Drive
GMPP E38 ECU with factory programming
Northern Aluminum LS Swap Radiator
OEM GM Fan with 70 amp Relay (no trouble in 100 degree heat)
Rick’s Stainless Tank (some sloshing issues, but nice tank)
Aeromotive A1000 Pump (in tank)
Aeromotive A1000 Regulator
Aeromotive Fuel Pump Controller to minimize fuel heating
-8 AN fuel lines run through frame rails
Just starts and runs...22 mpg on the highway
Car came with a 350 originally
Gear ratios: 3.27, 1.97, 1.34, 1.00, 0.68
Ram 550 ft lb capable clutch (a little stiff, but no slip)
Hydraulic Clutch Actuation
Installed in 2003 (70k miles)
Replaced shifter due to wear in 2014, shifts like new, synchro’s are fine
The car originally came with an automatic (TH350)
Reinforced mount front subframe with solid bushings
Rear frame rails replaced with formed 2x3” 0.125” wall square tube
3”x4” Nascar Frame Rail for Subframe Connectors (welded through floor)
New Paint to fix the cracking issues from before the frame upgrade
Fathom Green painted with modern paints (more vibrant)
White hockey stripes painted under clear coat
X11 Code SS from Factory
Original SS hood with louvers
Rolled Rear Fenders for increased tire clearance
New slightly tinted glass (glass itself is tinted, not added afterwards)
Factory Chin Spoiler
Custom Radiator Pan for improved cooling and downforce
Factory Rear Lip Spoiler
(This car is very stable at high speeds...no issue at 145 mph)
Optima Yellow Top Battery in Trunk
150 Amp Bus Fuse next to battery for easy disconnect
00 Gage Battery Cable for minimum loss
Factory/GMPP wiring harness
Detroit Speed Selecta Speed Wiper Kit
Detroit Speed Fabricated 9”
3.08 Visteon Gear Set
54.5” wide for deep dish wheels
Roush Racing Billet Yoke
The Driveshaft Shop built driveshaft
Detroit Speed Steering Box (modern steering feel)
Rebuilt Factory Control Arms with maxed out caster
Rebuilt all steering components
Koni Adjustable Shocks
Hotchkiss 1 ¼” Front anti-roll bar with urethane bushings
Detroit Speed Quadra Link
Rubber Bushings Swivel Links
Coil Over Shocks
Detroit Speed Mini-Tubs
Custom Reinforcement and connection to subframe connectors
Dakota Digital HDX Gauges (customizable with trip computer)
Recaro Front Seats (cloth street version)
Vintage Air AC System (necessary in NC!)
Kwik Compressor Mount
Morris Classic Retractable Seat Belts (much safer than old stock belts)
Ferrera Vintage Steering Wheel (love this wheel...perfect size and feel)
Alpine Bluetooth and hands-free Stereo with 40wx4 amplifier under passenger seat
Polk Audio 6 ½” Front and 6x9” Rear Speakers
Kooks Stainless Headers
3” Spintech/Borla Stainless Side Exhaust
· 4 mufflers, 2 Spintech, 2 Borla
· 2 ¼” H-pipe (sounded much better than the X-pipe)
· Redid this exhaust 3 times to get the sound right!
Wheels and Tires:
8x15” American Racing Torque Thrust Fronts
10x15” American Racing Torque Thrust Rears (deep dish)
225/60R15 Mickey Thompson SR Fronts
345/50R15 Nitto Drag Rears
Went for a vintage Trans-Am look (slightly drag-race with these big rears)
295/50R15 rears look more Trans-Am like, but don’t hook up near as well!
The tires are nearly at the end of their life probably have another 5k miles in them.
One nice thing about 15” tires is that they are relatively cheap compared to 18” tires. A full set can be had for $900, vs nearly double that for tires this wide in 18-20” tires.
Two videos of driving the car…
Walk around video…
Once the buyer contracts for a shipper, I will be more than happy to facilitate the pick-up.
For more info, please contact me by through eBay’s messaging system.
You can also text me at: 704-612-3031. I receive a lot of crank calls, so I would prefer a text requesting a call and I will call you back. My job has me tied up during most of the day so it may be evening before I can get back to you.